These directions will show you how to make a
setup bonnet for your machine, with out having to use the
antique wire basket.
| Click on Photos to see
Larger Images |
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All sock machines need some
form of webbing to get them
started knitting. We are going to use a bath scrunchy
to get going. Take the scrunchy and clip the string in
the center of it and you will have miles and miles of
webbing. |
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Cut off a piece of the scrunchy webbing
about 12 inches in length, make sure one end has a nice
straight edge. |
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Place your scrunchy webbing into your
cylinder from the bottom of the machine up to the top so it
does not get caught on the needles. |
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Drape about 1/2 to 1 inch of the scrunchy
webbing over the needles. You do not want much more
then one inch or it starts to get caught and harder to use. |
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When you have the scrunchy webbing on all
the needles that are showing or up, thread your machine with
scrap yarn. You will not be able to get the scrunchy
on the needles that are down in the cam shell yet. |
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My scrap yarn is red so you will be able to
see it, thread the scrap yarn through the yarn carrier
and have about 6 - 7 inches inside the cylinder. |
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Pull down gently but firmly on the scrunchy
webbing you want enough weight to hold the stitches
down but not so much that you will rip the scrunchy.
If you start to see you stitches ridding up pull down a
little harder. |
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Now turn the crank slowly and while pulling
down on the scrunchy, your scrap yarn should now start on
the needles to knit. Stop cranking when the needles
that were down in the cam shell are up. |
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Now lay the scrunchy over the last of the
needles again only placing 1/2 to one inch of webbing
over the needles. |
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Crank around and ensure you keep a even
amount of pull down applied to the scrunchy you do not
want to have the stitches riding up on the needles.
(if the stitches are riding up, try to pull down a bit more
on the scrunchy or loosen your tension adjustment) |
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Continue cranking with your scrap yarn |
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Crank enough scrap yarn ( 10 inches or so )
so you can hang your weights on the scrap yarn. I use
3 - 4 pounds of weight to hold my knitting down. |
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Now we
are ready to start the Setup Bonnet |
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Cut your scrap yarn by the yarn ball on
your table, now tie on your sock yarn with a granny knot (or
any knot will do ) pull the scrap yarn into the center
of the cylinder and keep pulling until you have about 4 - 5
inches of sock yarn also inside the cylinder. Drape
your sock yarn under one or two of the needles (you will be
knitting both scrap and sock yarn for a couple stitches)
This helps prevent dropped stitches. |
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Knit 10 rounds |
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Use your work hook ( crochet hook) to move
the stitch from one needle to the needle to its left.
You can see in the photo I started about 5 needles to the
left of the carrier moving stitches. Do NOT remove the
needles just the stitch. |
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A trick to getting the stitch off the
needle is to push the needle out a little, by pushing the
needle out you can see the stitch loop and can get your work
hook into the stitch very easy. |
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Continue around the entire cylinder moving
the stitch from one needle to the next needle. You
will have a needle with 2 stitches on it and then a needle
with no stitch. |
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You will not be able to get to all of the
needles as some will be down inside the cam shell, when you
reach these crank ahead slowly till all the needles
that were down are now up. Stop cranking
and now continue moving stitches till you reach the point
were you started. When you start knitting you will see the
following occur : the needle that had 2 stitches on it
will knit, and the needle that did not have a stitch will
now have half a stitch. |
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Knit 10 rounds and stop. When
you look inside the cylinder you should see your scrap yarn,
then your sock yarn, see the row of holes these
holes were created by moving the stitch off the needle. |
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Take all your weights off the sock Find
the needle about 4 needles to the left of your yarn carrier,
pull it up just a little so you can see it ( see photo)
You will now be Hanging a Hem |
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Use your work hook to follow the knitting
down to the very first row of sock yarn. It will be a
little bump of sock yarn color. |


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Insert your work hook in this bump and pull
it up and hang it on the needle that up pulled up. |
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You are now going to go around the entire
cylinder can pick up that first row of sock yarn and hang it
on the needles. In the photo I placed Black Marks by
the first row of stitches so you can see the bumps I am
talking about. |
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Using a scrap yarn that contrasts with your
sock yarn makes this step easy. You can see in the
photo the bright red scrap yarn and the brown sock yarn. |
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You will not be able to reach all of the
needles, as some will be down inside the cylinder.
Hang as many as you can, when you reach the point where you
can no longer hang the stitches.
VERY IMPORTANT : Grab a hold of your
knitting inside the cylinder and pull down to put weight on
the knitting and now crank slowly just till all the needles
that were down are not up. |
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Now continue hanging the stitches around
the cylinder until you reach to point where you started. |

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Your needles will have 2 stitches on them
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You can now put your weights back on the
knitting |
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Now crank, as you knit around you will be
knitting those 2 stitches together and making a hem. (
this is how you can make a hem top also ) |
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Continue cranking until you have about 9 -
10 inches of sock yarn knit into a tube. |
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To end the setup bonnet I just cut the yarn
by the yarn carrier |
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Remove your weights. Grab a
hold of the knitting and pull down |
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And crank slowly, your knitting will
come right off the needles crank around the entire
cylinder slowly to get all the stitches off the needles |
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Remove the scrunchy webbing from your scrap
yarn |

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You can reuse your scrap yarn by ripping it
out and winding it onto a center pull ball
I do not do any thing with the bottom edge of the bonnet
I just let it roll onto itself. Beware there is a
loose end on it and if you pull the wrong piece of yarn it
will rip out.
I also leave the bottom edge open so when I need to
remove the bonnet I can get my hand inside the bonnet. |
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Use a Sharpie and write on your bonnet what
size cylinder it is for |
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How to Use the Setup
Bonnet |

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Look at the top edge of the setup bonnet
you will see a edge (picot) that looks like hills and
valleys. In the valley there will be a longer piece of
yarn ( this was caused by the skipped stitch) this
longer piece of yarn is what you are looking for. |

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Insert your setup bonnet in your machine,
going from the bottom so it does not get caught on any
needles Insert your work hook into one of these long
stitches (in the valley) and hang it over a needle
In the photo on the left I added Black marks on the photo
so you can see the valleys
These valleys or longer stitches will be hung on every
other needle |

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Work to your left find the next valley
stitch, and hang that stitch working around the
cylinder hanging a stitch on every other needle You again
will not be able to get to all of the needles as some are
down in the cam shell. Stop
Thread your machine with scrap yarn |

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Hold down on your setup bonnet with your
left hand and crank ahead till the needles that were down
are now up. Stop Now hang the stitches on the rest
of the needles |

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You can now attach your weights to the
setup bonnet and crank |
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Crank about 4 rounds and Stop To stretch
out the valley stitches I leave the setup bonnets hang like
this for a half hour or so with the weights still
attached. This will make finding those valley stitches
very easy next time you use your setup bonnet. |
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How to Remove the
Setup Bonnet |